'bout an experience that really stands out in your
When I was a senior in High School my school swim team
went to Kona, on the Big Island. Our hotel ended up right in front of this break called Banyans.
We decided to rent some boards and sneak a few sessions in after our swim competitions. Well, we took our coach out, she'd never tried surfing before. Instead of paddling out she started walking out because it was shallow enough to stand. I guess she didn't realize that sea urchins live between the cracks in reefs and stepped right on one! She had like 8 needles in her foot! She was screaming in pain and that put a halt to our session. So, being the dedicated team we were, someone volunteered to pee in a bowl so she could soak her foot in it to ease the pain~ So the evening ended with our coach with her foot in a bowl of pee, the team cracking up at the whole situation and then her getting drunk so she wouldn't mind the stench of the pee on her foot!
about your hairiest day?
hairiest day I've ever encountered surfing was probably 2 winters ago out at Chuns
Reef. It wasn't that big when we paddled out, maybe 3-5 ft. My brother said it was supposed to pick up but not until later in the afternoon. Well, we were out for probably 3 hours and it slowly got bigger and bigger. By 10:30 it was like solid 8ft sets. I caught a bomb and tried to crank a bottom turn but
couldn't pull it off. I took a ride in the washing machine, but eventually made it back to the surface. I was trying to shake the water out of my ears when the set from hell came and I got worked again! It wasn't all that bad, but that day just stands out more than any other day because
one - I got worked, and 2 - some guy at jockos had his leash break and almost drowned out there! I'm sure he could say that was the
hairiest experience he ever encountered while surfing!
DO What YOU LOVE and LOVE what you
do, which means,
I LOVE surfing
. . . So that's what I do - SURF