Chuns, Lani's, Three's
'bout an experience that really stands out
My first time surfing north shore I was paddling back out when I came face to face with a solid 7-foot hawaiian scale wave and had to ditch my board. Needless to say, my leash snapped and I had to swim in about 250 meters with well overhead sets bombarding me while. I also had to dodge the surfers that were on them. While swimming in, I cut my hand on the reef and it started to bleed pretty bad making me vulnerable to sharks. Luckily, I made it in safely.
surf, eat, sleep, repeat...
'bout a quote?
"The worst day of surfing is better than the best day of school!"