Where ever I get
'bout an experience that really stands out in your
hairiest day came when I took a trip to Fiji. It was
8-10 ft and bowling hard. It was our second day there
and riding my second board. I dropped into a nugget
riding my 6'2" board. When I started dropping
into that wave everything appeared to be slow motion.
From the take off I pulled in and held on for life,
looking at the wave just spinning. I was so at uh!,
telling my self "you better not fall", It
must have been one of my longest barrels I've ever
had, until the wave just closed out on the inside
reef. I got held down for awhile and when I did I was
holding on to about 10" of my tail, I looked up
and some freak sets started rolling in. I was trying
to wave down the small boat but they couldn't help me
because I was sitting in the "holy shit"
zone, so I just went with the current swimming under
every wave that came in and eventually after 15
minutes or so I ended up in the safe zone out of
breath and stoked that I survived. After about 30
minutes I grabbed my last board and went back out for
life to its fullest and love your Ohana"